How to's #13: Understand the eerie quietness of a Tokyo Train

World's most populated city, along with the most advanced rail systems....

Tokyo is famous for their crowded trains. Now, combine the idea your average encounter with Asians(likely to be Chinese, and loud) except multiply that by thousands... and you will probably have an image that it is unbearably NOISY!

However, Japan is quite the opposite.

When I say eerily quiet, I do mean it. You will never have heard such intense silence in your life (Except possibly a Japanese movie theater before a film starts...I'll explain in a future post)

There is generally some minimal noise created by living beings. Such as: coughing, shuffling, breathing... In the trains though, you are left with only the sounds of: the tracks, cellphone button clicking (e-mails), PSP's, tapping of a DS, or a rude person with earphones too loud. I mean..you can honestly hear a sneeze practically in the next car over.

Now for people who live in Japan for longer periods of time, you will likely have your handy iPod or mp3 player on hand all the time. But one of these days, you will forget to charge it or you didn't plug it in correctly...and BAM! It's your morning commute and you are deprived of your music and/or podcasts for the remainder of your journey. It is at that moment, when you realize that it's quiet....scary quiet.

To make things clear, the only time that it is not quiet is during the late evenings....which are usually loaded with drunken salary men and rowdy young people who are trying to catch the last train home.

In most countries, trains will be noisy...but why....is it in Japan it is the norm to be near silent?

Well when I asked a number of my Japanese friends as well as students, the best understanding i can provide is it's historical context...

When trains were first introduced, it was a luxurious form of transportation. People would dress up, and exhibit a "proper" image. During that time, it would be rude and inappropriate to be boisterous. It is only over time, that the train system evolved to span the entirety of Japan...and grow into one of the world's most efficient systems. It may no longer be considered and a upper-class luxury anymore, but the importance of caring for others is still very much there

In addition, considering that you are often face-deep in somebody's armpit during a rush hour train...don't you think it's nicer that nobody is talking and yapping away letting their morning breath into the already stuffy train?

Although this is a generalized statement, Japanese people are very much the type to care for others. It is both a positive and negative attribute...But if you are to live or stay in Japan, it is one of the core understanding that is needed to understand Japanese culture...

So next time you are in the train...understand hat by being loud and inconsiderate of others, you would be infringing on another persons overall comfort and experience...Thus, it is important as foreigners that we respect and abide by this social rule of in train silence. Many foreigners feel it is stupid to abide by this rule..and that Japanese people simply care too much...but in the end...if you are in THEIR country, you should abide by THEIR rules.

So please....Don't be a BAD foreigner, and be courteous in the train. (don't eat on the train either!)

Please also read How to Survive a Rush Hour Train!

Suggestion on how to endure the silence:

• keep you Ipod charged!
• Podcast are your friend
• Go to Kinokuniya to buy some books (hard to read in a rush hour train though)
• Nintendo DS/PSP is a godsend! (i advise nintendo DS for it's more casual games...racing games and realtime games are ill advised)
• Learn to sleep standing up (I did it...so can you)
• Cellphone e-mails ( I use to text my friends at home..it's usually the number#@thecarrieremail.com)
• meditate

I'm Back!!! and ready to Blog!

Sorry folks!

I've been M.I.A. for the sake of school. I realize i haven't blogged in a couple months now, so I'm going to make up for it this winter. Please let me know if there are any specific articles you want me to write about first.

I have lined up:

• How to survive and understand the eerie silence of a train
• How to deal with losing your Wallet
• How to deal with Credit Card/ Debit cardless nation
• What is Aizuchi and why do people look like boggleheads
  
• How to get a Taxi
• How to enjoy the wonders of seperate checks
• What is KY and why is it important
• What is Koban and do they actually do anything
  
• How to find a pay phone
• How to find a bathroom

If you have any additional suggestions you would like to make I would be more than happy to write about them! Please e-mail me at ClaudiaJMNg@gmail.com

Please check back for posts soon to come!!!! ^_^

How to's #12: Understand the difference between Tabehodai and Viking♦♠♦

If you have lived in Japan, you are likely to be familiar with that fact that the portions are smaller. However, that does not mean you can not have a full stomach! Believe it or not, there are quite a few of these places all around! Introducing the two forms of all-you can eat in Japan!:

Tabehodai:
The best translation for "all you can eat". What this means is that you are sitting at a table and you can place as many orders as your would like. At izakayas (drinking places), this usually goes along with nomihodai, which is all you can drink! From a select menu you can call as many plates as you want.

My personal favorites are Shakey's Pizza and Guts Soul. These are two chains, that are scattered around different stations in Tokyo. Shakey's (easily located in Harajuku and Shibuya) is all you can eat pizza! There are different set you can purchase, that allow you to have more of a selection with pizza, sides, and drink! I suggest you avoid the corn and tuna one. Sounds interesting at first...but it's really not that appetizing especially when they provide the entirety of a 12 inch pizza.o_O


Guts Soul how I love thee... This is superiorly cheap korean BBQ. During lunch hours I believe they offer a better deal, but the evening prices are not bad either! The cheapest one is 980yen and it ranges to 1500yen. The difference is only in the selection of meet. The cheapest one is limited only to pork and some lower cut beef. The more expensive ones, give you the option to eat better cuts. Personally, it all goes down good. The ones I ate at was located at yoyogi and nakano. Try to mix in some veggies...for the sake of nutrition.^_^

OH! and for the sushi connoisseur, there is a all you can eat tsukiji tabehodai place at the kinshichyou station! It's amazing! A little bit expensive, I believe it was 2500yen a head but it was worth it! You can eat all ootoro(fatty tuna) the whole night if you so choose.

Viking:
Alright...this was pretty confusing to me, too. So Viking means buffet...Took me a while to figure that one out. I think its because there is a stereotype that Vikings ate a lot. Also, it is easier to pronounce that "buffet" for Japanese people.

The difference is that you must walk up to get your food. Viking is less tasty in my opinion. It is about the same price as tabehodai more or less. The less enjoyable features is that all the good stuff gets gobbled immediately and the remaining dregs is not very enjoyable. The temperatures of everything is not quite right, and new trays always take a while to come out>_<. I've had indian food Viking, which wasn't half bad. My worse experience was with a Thai Viking in shinjuku that caused me and my friends to have an upset stomach. o_O I will however recommend a place in Harajuku, across from the Daiso called "Dessert Paradise". There is a plethora of amazing cakes and pies to choose from! There is also a very enjoyable pasta/soup bar where you can fill up on actual sustenance before you hovel sweets into your face for 30 minutes.

With all this in mind, enjoy a night out with your friends and your full stomach! Be careful though, you are probably not accustomed to overeating and you will have negative effects. Full stomach = Happy points. Falling asleep from food coma/bloated stomach pains = -Happy points. So consume with caution!

How to's #11: attend University/college with English Courses

I want to begin with the fact that I went to Sophia University (上智大学, Jōchi daigaku)for a year.

Choosing a school:

With Sophia it was a good school and there is definitely some prestige to the name. In my experience, when I let Japanese people know what school I attended, it was like saying I attended Stanford or Berkeley. The FLA(faculty of the liberal arts) program is all in English. They have an decent selection of classes. Sophia is one of the top schools with the largest English program. FLA students make up about 10% of the entire Sophia school student body. It may have risen since I was there.

Other schools you may want to consider is Temple, ICU, and Waseda. and Keio University. Tokyo University, aka Todai, I believe only has specialty courses and graduate programs in english. All these schools are all in Tokyo area.

Applying and getting into these schools as a degree student is not difficult. The requirements for a foreigner are not NEARLY as strict as they are for Japanese.


Things you should know before choosing a school in Tokyo:


Tokyo people are notorious for being a little distant, so you may not be able to make as many super japanese friends. Instead, you'll meet a lot of quasi-americanized japanese that are friendly, and chill but likely speak a lot of english. I went to Tokyo with determination to make Japanese friends. I joined clubs, and tried really hard(more than I should have really...) I tried to speak completely in Japanese, be more japanese...but in the end...I didn't succeed to the extent I wanted to.(This was a consensus among many of the exchange students)

You will however be able to meet a lot of other students around the world, which was great experience for making multicultural friendships. European, Australian, Taiwanese...you name it... it's all good.^_^ I made a lot of everlasting friendships and I wouldn't trade them for the world.


More Information about My Sophia experience:

Sophia is one stop away from Shinjuku, and is in central tokyo. Extremely convenient location, but if you live out in the sticks, the commute can be rough.

Sophia has contracts with many schools, so you might consider a year long study abroad, instead of signing on as a degree student. That is what I did, My home school is University of San Francisco.

My personal opinions of the Sophia are not that great. I loved the people at th school, but I honestly wasn't that impressed. It could be possible I maybe more accustomed to American style of teaching, thus giving me a biased opinion. I like the more challenging ,"hit the ground running" kind of learning in American schools. School in Japan are by FAR much more laid back than American Universities.

In the end, 1 year was enough for me... it also didn't help that I was paying 17k+ of my schools tuition per semester. (Note: directly applying to Sophia is a much better idea, tuition is significantly cheaper) Even with the direct contract, many of my units couldn't transfer...that could be faulted on my own homeschool though.

I wasn't impressed, however, I met a few people who decided to transfer to Sophia. Their reasoning still evades me, since a Japanese Degree isn't worth diddly in the states. So not only have you squandered your "education", but you are completely ill fit to go beyond office grunt in the American world. Only those with severe ambitions can really take a lot more out of their Japanese experience outside of school. I maybe being a little critical, but I feel that many of the exchange students squander their experience more than cherish it. So I see no point in wasting your time,money, and energy if you aren't bettering yourself or the world with it. Alright..cathartic sequence...over...my apologies...

Anywho... Sophia is one of the better programs you can choose from.


My Personal Suggestions:


If it is more about learning Japanese, I would recommend a place closer to the outskirts like ICU. Where people are more friendly and likely to chat it up with you. If you are severely determined about japanese...skip the program and opt for language school. I attended Naganuma my last 4 months in Tokyo. I learned more in those 4 months thanthe 12 months before.

If you want to pursue your desired major, than your best plan is to go to an American university, and spend some time abroad. Because many of the programs don't have as wide of a selection in your major and an American school would. So be sure to find a school that is contracted, and just try to take your general requirement courses at the Japanese University.(Literature, History, English, that kinda thing) Sophia's FLA website isnt googlable...so be sure to go to http://www.fcc.sophia.ac.jp/index.html . They have a class catalog you can look at also.

Additional options: You can also do the CIEE program to Sophia, but I think it's ridiculously expensive. The benefit are the liaisons, and cultural field trips. In my 15 months in Tokyo I have met many students in CIEE, trust me when I say you would prefer to go outside of the program, and keep your freedom.

How To's #10: Find a Doctor

If you can't read Kanji, finding a doctor maybe difficult. However, they are absolutely everywhere.

In Japan, they have large general hospitals and small clinics. There are specialized clinics all over the place. Your don't really need to make and appointment most the time, and you can show up day of...it's quite convenient.

And to my female readers, the OBGYN is referred to as "Ladies Clinics". Also,oddly enough they automatically use curtains so you can't see the doctor...Personally, I think that just makes me more uncomfortable...(sorry guys...if that was too much information)

Your best resource is the Himawari Clinic Hotline: 03-5285-8181

This is there website

The operator will ask you what language you speak and find a proper translator. So this is a good resources to give to your non-english speaking friends,too. You tell them what you need, and which stations you are willing to travel to.

They will ask you to call back in 15 minutes. In that time they will have prepared a lovely list of doctor's that meet your criteria. Rather it be English-speaking...male...female... you name it...they'll help you find one.

They will even give you details instructions on how to get there. So if you are living in Tokyo, I highly recommend that you have this plugged into your phone.

Information worth noting:

So...in my personal opinion...Japanese doctors are not that great. I am not saying Japan is not a great country....but... my American body needs stronger and more thorough meds. Your appointment consists of you listing out your bodily discomforts...and them giving a prescription for everything you just listed...

There is no taking of temperatures...checking of heart rate...and everything else your use to with an American doctor(that is if you are American...)

I had a horribly case of bronchitis throughout the winter. It was so bad that I pulled a muscle in my side. I was in a great deal of pain, and could barely walk. All they gave me was a minor cough suppressant, and nothing for the pain. In situations like these...I wanted my Codeine and Ibuprofen!

I was also like to note that this is a nation that would not tell you if your dying. They'll tell your family but not you directly. I guess I'm too American...to appreciate that it's more of a polite gesture than them denying my right to know...

And since it is relevant, I will dabble a little bit in the Wonderful Japanese National Health Insurance. Something that as an American, a mythical concept, is a godsend as an alien in Japan. The health insurance covers up to 70% on everything! From the appointment cost to the lesser drugs they give you (it's better than nothing), it will only cost you 30%.

All foreigners in Japan have an alien registration(toryoukushou). Depending on your location, you will register with an assigned ward. At the time you do that, you can apply for your Hokkenshou, which is your national health insurance card. It is as simple as that.

Note: It is cheaper to get your wisdom teeth pulled in Japan. However, it is ill advise...since they give you weaker pain reliever 0_O

BRING YOUR OWN MEDICINE!
my list to bring from my own country includes: Ibuprofen, nyquil, dayquil, Vitamin C tablets, and Allergy medicine

How To's #9: Enjoy the Wonders of Suica / Pasmo and Commuter Passes

How do you manage to have millions of people traveling via train in a crowded city like Tokyo?

The answer: Suica/Pasmo

These are cards that cost about 500yen($5) and can work as prepaid tickets. You scan it over the ticketing sensor and it automatically deducts yours fare amount from your card. The sensors can go through wallets and even small purses. You can use these for all ticketing booths that have a scanner.(Metro, JR, Keio, Odakyu)

Be careful not to go too quickly otherwise it won't scan and than at the next station you will have to speak with the counter person to fix your card.

I would like to state that SUICA is better than PASMO. Suica is with the JR system and Pasmo is with Keio and Metro. Suica is more than just prepaid tickets for trains and buses.

Suica can be used at vending machines, convenient stores and electronic stores. For example, at Akihabara, you can pay for many of your purchases using Suica. Thinking about buying a new laptop? got two grand on your Suica?... why not...

Granted thats an excessive example...It is still pretty convenient. In fact, many cellphones have allow you to use your cellphone as a Suica. However adding money is kind of a pain, and it might scratch up your ridiculously aesthetic j-phone.

TEIKI (定期) - Commuter Pass

The commuter pass is a must for anybody living in Japan for longer than a month. You pay a set amount for a pass that lets you unlimitedly travel between one station and another. Students gets discounts, and companies will sponsor work passes(Note: for student discount you must show your school ID). If you are neither, you should buy one anyways if you find yourself traveling to one big station all the time.

Good ones to have are ones going to Shinjuku. Since that is a big station, you will likely depart from there all the time. Having one of these allows you to freely travel back and forth between your home and wherever. So you don't have to worry about the cost if you forget your cell or something.

You can buy your commuter pass and have it as a card or you can have it directly printed onto your Suica. You can do it via machines, or speak with and attendant and "midorimadoguichi" (Translation: Green Window). You may purchase it for 1,3, or 6 months. The costs of the commuter pass will vary on distance and time frame.

It's rare... but I've heard of people getting commuter passes with the Shinkansen!(bullet trains) 0_O


What to do if you lose your Suica and thus your Commuter Pass?

I love the Japanese system! So this has happened to me once, but I was fortunate enough to have someone explain to me the system before I spent a hundred dollars on another commuter pass.

If you lose your Suica or Pasmo, go to the train office. Tell them that you dropped it (suica/pasmo wo Otoshita)... than ask what should you do..(dou sureba ii desuka?)... They should hear your accented Japanese, and proceed to help you by speaking bad English or extremely slow Japanese.

They will ask you for 500yen to buy a new card, and print the new commuter pass on it at no additional charge! How great is that!

And when you go back to your country or whatever, you can sell your Suica back to the station and return your 500yen!


Additional Information: Suica works in the Kansai area. However, it goes by ICOcard. So use any of the JR machines to add money. However, these do not work on the Hankyu line.

Tokyo How To's #8: Start Teaching English(Earn far more than Money than Minimum Wage!)

This entry is not how to get into a English teaching program like JET. This is for individuals already in Japan who want to some pocket money.

There are two ways:

1. Get a work permit and work for a company

• PRO: legitimate, back to back students, set schedule, and company provides materials
• CON: Pay is less, hours aren't flexible, and teaching method is restricted
  

2. Find your own students through networking websites

• PRO: flexible schedule, casual, over coffee or food, and much better pay
  
• CON: Higher chance of encountering "creepies", commute time is costly, and inconsistent

Getting a Permit and work for a company
From what I know, you can get this only as a student. With the school, you can apply for up to 28 hours part-time. After you attain the permit, you can apply to various English teaching schools. Large companies like Gaba are very popular. However, one should only expect to see only a little over 1000yen ($10)


Finding your own student through networking websites
There are many websites that can be found for this specific purpose. I used both findateacher.net and findstudent.net. I personally liked findateacher.net more, simply because I got better responses.


There are some necessary notes that need to be taken when making a profile:

• blood type O is best (its like horoscopes in Japan)
• Scorpios have a bad image
  
• You will get much better responses if you are a girl
• If you are a girl, be sure to use really cute pictures of yourself
• The first lesson should never be free(fishes out the wierdos, and covers train cost)
• Always meet in public areas (like Cafe's, there are LOTS)
• Students that want to meet you outside of lessons should be immediately dropped
• Prepare a inquiry response. This was mine (in Romaji):

"Watashi wa Claudia Desu.Eigo o benkyoushitai desune. itsu ni aimashouka? doko de iideshouka? watashi no keitai meiru wa *******@ezweb.ne.jp. henji suru toki ni kono meiru tsukatte kudasai. yoroshiku -Claudia"


Pricing?
It depends on your Japanese skill level, and if you are male or female. I started off with a sample lesson of 500yen($5) and regular lesson of 2500yen($25). After a few month, I had regular students at 3500yen($35) an hour. I wasn't strict on overtime, because I was receiving a good amount of money. I also often time received meals,too. Many of my student could only have the lessons after work on weekdays.


How to teach

children: You definitely need to get some learning material. Do not bother explaining to them grammar. Just start practicing how to say things. Try to teach 6 year old and above, and individually.(Otherwise, they go nuts)

Adults: I tailored my lesson to each student. The first lesson is getting to know them, their level, and what they would like to achieve. I emphasized conversational ability and pronunciation. A useful learning material was the free magazine Metropolis. You can get it in any Tower records. They had interesting summarized news. That would be discussion topic. Very easy, light hearted, and just all around good time. Many of them have studied English before, they just are not confident with it.


SPECIAL NOTES:

How to get rid of creepos?
It's easy! just say " I am sorry, but I have to go back to my country. Best of Luck"

It is kind of bad, but it is the best way.


You can make a lot of money, and learn quite a lot about Japanese culture. Be safe and Good luck!